Rotorua... The Land After the Hobbits

It's true what they all told me... You smell Rotorua before you see it. That sulfur scent associated with the geothermal activity in the town. You get used to it... Except when you wake up at night wondering who passed gas when you are alone in the room...

I got in to Rotorua, checked in to the backpackers and away I went to go zorbing!!!!

I did the straight path and the side winder. Rented clothes to soak and a towel from the place, left my clothes in a cubby and up I went to the top of the hill. They fill the inner bubble with warm water and tell you to "Superman dive" in through the hole they zip up. Only way in so I hoped my aim was true - plop! Right into the clear globe. I thought it would feel claustrophobic inside, but it just felt like sitting in a warm bath. The guy told me to get started I had to stand up and try to walk down the hill. Are you kidding? He said falling is like falling on a trampoline. So what the heck, why not? He dared me to stay on my feet as long as I could. I started walking, and as soon as the globe started rolling I fell firmly onto my rear. So much for that dare. But down the hill I went! It felt like forever but they say its only about 45 seconds. 

They told me I could relax in the hot tub or go right on up for the next path. I went right up. I couldn't wait! I dove in and the guy launched me down the side winder, about a 2 minute ride. Zorbing was some of the best fun I have ever had!!! I relaxed in the hot tub after I was done before I dressed again and bought some photos. Can't wait to share them when I get home. 

Then I took a walk in the Kaipu (I think) park. Geothermal activity all over with paths going around the hot spots. There are even a couple of free foot baths/spas warmed with the earth's heat. My feet were loving it. The park was well kept, flowered paths and gardens everywhere, their aroma competing with the sulfurous earth but their colors splashed for effect. It was quite something!

My last activity for that day was visiting Lake Rotorua. I nabbed an ice cream come and walked down to the socks and found a bench where I could admire the view. The day wound down so I went and are some Thai and hit the hay not long after that, a room in the hostel all to myself somehow. 

Matamata - Home of the Hobbits

My last day in Auckland I did a lot of nothing. I stayed in bed for awhile, took a long shower, washed some clothes in the sink (REI pants dried super fast and even the long sleeve cold gear Under Armour top dried faster than I expected) and researched and booked my plane ticket home. I return a few days sooner than I would have liked but my wallet liked the prices on the 27th more than every day after that. I wandered around Auckland a bit, finally walking normally (aside from the hills and stairs). I got my hair done, ate, and went to bed early. Because if I was going to vacation like a normal tourist, then surely that was normal, right? 

Today, I left Auckland and arrived in the small town of Matamata. Only about 6,000 people they say... There are far more sheep here than people. My camp site was further away than my phone contact had reported, so the gals at the I-site moved up my Hobbiton tour time, let me stow my gear at the shop so I would only have to get a trip out once. Seriously, New Zealanders are so nice!

In the blink of an eye, off I went to the Shire! Movie magic makes everything look bigger and grander, but it was a beautiful place! Rolling green hills and trees, sheep and angus cows (yum) foraging about... But aside from all that, I got to see Hobbit holes!!! The LOTR nerd in me was thrilled! I have seen the movies more times than I like to admit. I probably could give a tour myself, ha! The hills were a bummer for the knee but it was a slow tour with lots of picture takin so I had the time to take it slow. I saw Bag End, ate and drank (free ale guys!) at The Green Dragon. I took pictures at Samwise Gamgee's home in the final movie and got pictures of the party tree at Bilbo's birthday... It was surreal and I wished I could really live there. It was so alive and vibrant and was possibly the best smelling place I have ever been in the world. 

I returned to civilization. What a drag. The kind ladies got a hold of the one can in town and I caught a ride out to the holiday park to pitch my tent. When I asked about a ride the next morning, I found to my dismay that he did not operate on Sunday. So tomorrow I take off early in the morning to allow myself a nice slow 7-8 km walk back to the bus stop. We will see how the knee holds up with the bag again for a few miles. I might try my hand at hitch hiking too. Can't hurt, right? 

Tomorrow I am off to Rotorua to go zorbing, maybe check out this Agridome that is across the street from it. The next morning will have me at Waitomo Glowworm Caves and back again to see what else I can pack into my time before I move on to Taupo. My time is running out much sooner than I would have wished. I find myself wanting to stay here, live here, explore. But adulthood awaits me! Onward soldier, onward!

Relaxing in Auckland

Made it to Auckland. I usually fall asleep, out cold, on buses and planes. But here I can't do it. The vibrant greens sweeping past the windows are impossible to not admire. You would be hard pressed to find such a variety of shades of green anywhere else in the world, I think. The rolling hills with ridges on most hills that look like the waves on the ocean shore are brilliant! The vegetation is so foreign. I don't know the names of most of what I am looking at but I don't recognize them. It's like another world. Going through forested areas makes me imagine I am Jurassic Park. Surely there are dinosaurs hiding out still in this country, right?!

So I made it to Auckland. The city that doesn't feel like a city to me. I hated NYC with a passion, but here there is no rush. The hustle has a bit less bustle here I guess. So I explored some more, stretching my muscles and favoring my knee. I am nearly walking on it normally (until you throw a hill or some stairs in front of me and I want to cry). I got a massage, got my Internet on my phone fixed, chatted with the gals I roomed with at the hostel last week... 

Now I am waiting for a comedy show. I found a little comedy club in my wandering around today and the tickets for the show were cheaper than a movie ticket here so I decided to go for it. Then I will be off for a good night's rest and some early morning planning for the day tomorrow. Might see an island I can't remember the name of, or see if I can make it up Mt. Eden. Who knows what the next day will bring my way?

Cheers to everyone still reading my blog even after the trek disappointment. I don't have any regrets. 

Day 3 - The Bluff to... Somewhere on 90 Mile Beach

I woke up quite stiff this morning. After a 20+Km day that was to be expected. I shuffled a bit until I massaged my muscles and stretched out. And I woke up to a herd of wild horses grazing not 30 feet from my tent. They watched casually as I packed up. As I began walking back to the beach they followed me. It was quite a sight. Then a new group of horses came running across my path and ran down the shore. It was like a scene from a dream. 

So off I went, into the misty morning, feeling a bit better than the day before had ended. Despite the aches and pains, I felt stronger than the day before and the day before that. My body was already adjusting to the lifestyle of trekking. 

But within a half hour of starting the knee shifted from the normal ache to the sharp pain under the kneecap... The pain I learned to recognize in the Army when I could no longer run. 

I continued walking while I made my decision. I have loved the walking! Even though its been just the beach so far, I enjoyed my time. I was appreciating the gift of God's creation. But I also knew that even as my body grew stronger my knee would only get worse and would surely soon be followed by the left knee. I knew from experience that it wasn't something to be pushed through. 

So I decided that when I could stop and get back to a town with bus service, I would stop. As much as I want to do this trip, it's not worth breaking myself. Luckily, my tour guide from a couple days before who had dropped me off at Cape Reinga pulled up on the beach and saved me from walking 2 more days to Ahipara to find a ride. So I finished my tour back to Paihia to rest and ice my knee and replan my entire New Zealand experience.  

I am frustrated, of course, at this turn of events. As I said before, I had considered how I would feel if I didn't like it and chose to stop. I had not seriously considered how I would feel if I found that I ADORED it, and that I simply couldn't go. It isn't little heart syndrome, but little knee syndrome in this case, I suppose. But in everything there is a lesson... Never have I gone for something big in my life and not completed or achieved it. Now I must learn how to deal with failure, with extreme disappointment.  I can still grow from this experience... And I can still explore this gorgeous country! All the things I thought I would see, I probably won't. But as Derek, the tour guide, pointed out, I will get to see other things I would not have experienced had I stuck to the trail. 

So with disappointed hopes, I bed down for the night under a roof instead of a tent, after a hot shower, with a television on, ice on the knee, and dream about making new plans. 

I also apologize to everyone following my progress... Very little of it was made, indeed. But keep tuning in as I post about other adventures in New Zealand. Thanks to all of you for your support and belief in me. Not a soul ever told me they didn't think I could do it. That belief allowed me to dream so big and believe in my own abilities. The confidence you all have in me is appreciated. I hope no one will think it was misplaced.  

Day 2 - Twilight Beach to The Bluff

Today was the first whole day of trekking.  Started off with a beautiful morning. 

I had a lovely view and unlike my prediction the night before, my body felt pretty good. There were some sore spots and I did a good bit of stretching before I took off. 

I had to go over Scott's Point. Tons of ups and downs. It was overwhelming to see a hill ahead of me after I had just topped one. (And we won't even get into the terrible lack of posts to tell you which trail was the right one.) But I told myself to focus on the hill at hand. One thing at a time, the next hills would be reached in their own due time. I finally got to the epic stairs that take you down to 90 Mile Beach (only 55 miles though). 

So I trucked along, shifting the pack constantly for some relief. Of course aches and pains are to be expected. I stopped at Te Paki Stream, refilled some water, strolled down the stream to the ocean to cool my feet and take a break. I was feeling pretty good! Right after I crossed Butler Stream a bus pulled up... It was the tour guide from yesterday! He gave me a cold bottle of water and let me dump my rubbish. He told me if he worked the next day he would stop again and if he wasn't there he would tell the others to be on the lookout for me. Super nice!!! 

The bottle became a lifesaver. At the time I didn't want to put my pack down and stuff the bottle in, so I stuck it between my waist belt and tummy. Low and behold, the weight was redistributed on my back. My shoulders were no longer bearing all the weight; some had moved to my hips. 

What a discovery! But after all that great stuff came the bad. Around 2pm my right knee started to hurt. Not the ache of load-bearing and walking, but the sharp pain that ended my running in the military. I carried on of course - what else is there to do? Around 6 I finally made it to the campsite at The Bluff. And by made it, I mean I was hobbling. My feet hurt terribly of course - that sand is exactly like walking on concrete just like they said. That on its own is bearable. I have walked further in a day and have had more blisters than the measly 3 honkin' big ones I have now. But that in addition to a knee that hurts with every bend? I had tears in my eyes when I finally threw my pack down to set up camp. 

Now I lay here and realize that although I made it to paradise, I might not get to enjoy it the way I planned. When I planned this endeavor, I thought, "what if I don't like it? Find out I hate walking/hiking that way?" Turns out, I love it. I appreciate being in the moment, each one lived in its own turn. I can apply things I have told myself walking the last 2 days to my life. I have talked candidly with God. Imagine what more lessons are to be learned along the way? I don't mind the heavy pack... Ok, that's a lie. I mind it, of course. It's heavy. But it's not unmanageable. 

But never once in my planning did I consider - what if I can't do it? Not from lack of desire or stamina, lack of determination, etc. but because my body simply wouldn't hold up. I have hiked further in a day before but never with such a pack or such terrain. My knees have always ached after a weekend hiking trip, but nothing a little rest, ice and Mobic couldn't fix. Now I see that perhaps my knees are a bigger issue than I cared to admit. It's only day 2 and one knee is excruciatingly painful unless absolute straight or bent to my chest. And when favoring one knee, the other will soon follow. 

I felt led by God to come here. It felt absolutely right. But it would seem my journey in this form will be cut short. I know this knee pain won't get better. I tried that before. I will have no choice but to quit after I have barely begun, unless there is a miracle. 

Day 1 - Cape Reinga to Twilight Beach

Short day, starting off at the Cape around noon. Had a great tour guide on the way. He is doing the trail himself in sections so he gave me tips and even taught me how to catch tuatua (a mollusk of some kind) and eat them. Pretty tasty. Saves me some cooking! 

Anyway, it was a short day of walking but it sure felt long. My shoulders ached and I got pretty good at balancing my bag on the sign posts to give them a break. Other times, I just plopped myself down in the middle of the trail to rest and lean on the heavy pack. I won't lie - I felt very out of shape. But I kept telling myself I can only get stronger from here. (And unlike rucking in the Army, I can stop and rest when I please.) I know I am not on a timeline so I took as many breaks as I needed. This pack has a great set up except it is heavy and the straps are too wide and not made to contour around lady bumps. But my body will get stronger and in a few weeks I hope it won't be any issue. 

I set up camp early. The guide thought I could make it at least to Scott's Point, but I know not to push too hard at the start. So I stopped at the campsite on Twilight Beach. I am glad I gave myself the extra time, just to see how long my evening routine will take. I successfully made a fire (my biggest worry) for my dinner, some New Zealand kind of Ramen. But I learned some lessons about how to do my routine better. Made some mistakes. But hey, the Army taught me how to do an AAR, so I sat down and evaluated my day. Tomorrow my routine will be better. 

Now I am cozy in my sleeping bag (actually need one here unlike Texas), listening to the waves of the Tasman Sea crashing on the shore below, with the sun finally starting to go down. I hope to be asleep soon and praying to God that my body doesn't betray me tomorrow... Which I am sure it will. But, all I have to do is put one foot in front of the other. The journey of a thousand miles (or about 1,800 miles in this case) begins with a single step...

Planning in Paihia

Well, no longer a trekking blog exactly... But I will keep posting about plans and events and review some of my gear along the way. 

Laid in bed for quite awhile, watched the news. I just didn't want to get up and go. I took my time. Finally got up and hobbled around. After resting for so long my feet could hardly bear my weight and my right knee was feeling better but was in much better shape if I kept movement to a minimum. 

I spent a couple hours on the hotel computer picking things in New Zealand I wanted to see and do. It was like starting from scratch. 

After a bit I needed to do something. I had to enjoy Paihia. The tour guide had mentioned that the start of New Zealand was in Waitangi. So I headed out. Grabbed some chicken saag at an Indian joint along the way. I embarked on the 20 minute walk to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. (For me it ended up being more like a 30-35 minute walk.) 

It was worth the trip, knee or no. It was the place where the Maori chiefs and British signed a treaty that basically began New Zealand in 1840. Look it up! They had the actual site marked by their Navy cross, you could explore the house where the treaty was drafted. A huge, world record setting Maori war canoe was on display with the stump of the gigantic Kauri tree that the bow and stern were made from. There was also a meeting house with an awesome Maori cultural performance. They did a welcome ceremony, performed some traditional song and dance things. Lots of big eyes, foot stomping, mad gesturing, yelling, and sticking out tongues. An awesome experience! 

Then I took another nice slooooow walk back to Paihia. Ate some fish and chips, hopped back on the computer and planned, researched and booked my travel for the next few days. 

Today it's back to Auckland, then to Matamata for camping and Hobbiton, then Rotorua for zorbing and nearby is the Tongariro Alpine Crossing - a day hike with a trip up Mount Doom if I can manage it. From there I will work on planning the next leg of my trip. I will enjoy New Zealand, even if it isn't in the way I planned. It will probably be my last big vacation, as upon my return I will have to be a grown-up again and find a job. 

Off for more adventure. Throwing off those bow lines Mark Twain mentioned once... Living life as it ought to be lived.